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Home Β» Virginia Β» Poets and pets: The story of Fort Monroe

Poets and pets: The story of Fort Monroe

February 3, 2015 by Karen Dawkins 31 Comments

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Photo Courtesy of the Hampton CVB

Photo Courtesy of the Hampton CVB

Have you ever fallen hard for someone — or something? You know, so hard you just can’t get it out of your mind?

That happened for me at St. Chappelle in Paris. Stepping into that grand cathedral with its tall stained glass windows that have seen centuries of history, standing on floors where kings have walked. I was overwhelmed.

I never dreamed I’d have an experience like that in the United States. Our history dates back only a few hundred years… No place has seen the history that Paris has seen.

And then….

I visited Fort Monroe. And I found a new historical love. One that relates to MY history. One that tells the story of MY country.

Dear reader, before you go on promise me that you’ll read this article as if I’m introducing you to a new friend. Soak in her story. Let your imagination run free… and maybe, you’ll see the Fort Monroe that captivates me.

Historians and Civil War buffs can tell you the military details of Fort Monroe. I don’t love her for that. Architects can tell you all sorts of neat things about her construction, the slate, iron bars, stone walls and moat, but that’s not why I love her. Though, that moat thing is really cool, especially since Fort Monroe is considered one of the 10 most amazing moats in the world! No…. For me, the draw of Fort Monroe is her story… the tale of poets and pets who called this place home.

Let your imagination join you on the rest of this journey, won’t you?

It’s 1827. A young man named Edgar falls into deep debt and drops out of college. He enlists in the U.S. Army under a pseudonym to hide from bill collectors and is assigned to Fort Monroe, in the Chesapeake Bay.

Fort Monroe Moat

He arrives at the Fort, surrounded by a wide moat and crosses the bridge to gain entry. He walks through a narrow tunnel under the wide Casemate and emerges to see neat rows of 2 and 3 story buildings. The wide, grassy parade ground is there, its edges marked by carefully planted trees.

Fort Monroe Entrance Tunnel

Homes of Fort Monroe

Edgar follows the perimeter road that runs along the inside of the wall, taking in every detail. Perhaps the order of a military base intrigues him. More likely, it rubs him raw, no doubt influencing his future career as a writer and poet.

Interior Wall of the Casemate at Fort Monroe #ftoab

Visitors to the Casemate Museum at Fort Monroe today can learn more about this young Edgar Allan Perry (better known as Poe), a real life guy with with real life problems and a vivid, creepy imagination!

It’s now 1831 and a brilliant, young lieutenant by the name of Robert E. Lee is assigned to Fort Monroe to oversee the final phase of its construction (it only took 25 years). Lee’s home, called Quarters 17, is now a private residence. But when he lived here, he had his first child (well, his wife did the hard part). He made military plans. He trained troops… just a normal, everyday life with some military brilliance thrown in.

Robert E. Lee's home at Fort Monroe Photo Courtesy of the Hampton CVB

Robert E. Lee’s home at Fort Monroe
Photo Courtesy of the Hampton CVB

As I stood facing Lee’s home, I wondered if he and Poe ever met — Poe got himself kicked out of the Army in 1828. Did Lee visit during that time? Can you imagine, the rebellious, young Poe crossing paths with the disciplined Lee? Oooooh…. (Interesting side note, just one month after Poe left military service, he published a book Poems and dedicated it to his fellow cadets at Fort Monroe.)

I wonder about Lee’s wife and family. Did they watch maneuvers on the parade grounds? Did she take their baby on walks in a pram? Did Robert E. Lee, the dad not the military man, hang a wooden swing from a tree in the yard?

The next 30 years were relatively quiet at Fort Monroe, military business as usual.

Fort Monroe in the Civil War

Virginia seceded from the Union in 1860, but Fort Monroe remained a Union Army installation, a pivotal point in the history of our nation. (Though I don’t remember ever being taught this in school!) It was surrounded by water on all sides and, beyond that, by Confederate camps. What good could come of a Union fort completely surrounded by the “enemy” — even if the enemy is a brother?

Photograph: Ira Block/Getty Images

Photograph: Ira Block/Getty Images

As it turns out, Fort Monroe’s greatest claim to fame comes from being there — in that place at that time.

During the Civil War, Major General Benjamin Butler, not considered a great general and assigned to Fort Monroe to keep him out of battle, made the greatest decision of his life. When escaped slaves ran to Fort Monroe for protection, Butler could return them to their owners or declare that all slaves — called contraband, referring to their legal status as property — would be protected within the fort. He chose to protect them, saving thousands and earning Fort Monroe the nickname “Freedom’s Fortress.” These freed slaves and their children were taught to read and write. Hampton University, located nearby, can trace its roots back to these efforts.

Casemate Museum

Photo Courtesy of Hampton CVB

Imagine those slaves, running for freedom INTO an armed fort. The first brave escapees didn’t know if they’d be rescued or sent back. YEt, they willingly risked their lives. Can you even sense their relief at Maj. Gen. Butler’s decision? Or how they felt to be taught to read and write?

I simply cannot comprehend their emotions as they settled in to bed their first night safely behind those walls. One Fort, an oasis in the dark. One leader, not a great military strategist but a man of compassion. One people, rescued and renewed.

At one point in the war, Confederate Gen. Lee (yes, the same Lee who oversaw construction of Fort Monroe) chose not to attack it. The irony! He knew Fort Monroe inside out and determined it a battle he could not win. Just think, if he hadn’t known the Fort so well and tried to attack. How would the course of history be changed?

After the war, Fort Monroe served as Jefferson Davis’ prison cell, held on charges of treason.  From his small cell with barred windows he could glimpse the free world beyond. Isolated, he had ample time to wonder if he would become the symbol of the fallen Confederacy, killed for acts of treason.

Jefferson Davis Cell at Fort Monroe Photo Courtesy of Hampton CVB

Jefferson Davis Cell at Fort Monroe
Photo Courtesy of Hampton CVB

His wife eventually moved to Fort Monroe to be closer to her husband. Did she walk the streets with her head held high? Was she shunned? Did she observe maneuvers on the parade grounds? Did she climb the stairs to the top of the wall to take in the views of the river and countryside beyond?

Fort Monroe today

Fort Monroe was deactivated in 2011 and named a National Monument. But it’s so much more…. Before returning to Raleigh, I had to go back one more time. I climbed to the terreplein, and walked the perimeter. The grass is manicured and evidence of gun stations remains. I watched as a Naval ship set off to sea.

Fort Monroe view from the Terreplain #ftoab

But I had a reason to be there: To see the “Pet Cemetery.” In a tradition dating back (at least) to 1936, military families who called Fort Monroe home buried their pets up there. These gravestones reveal a sense of the “normal” family life of the people who made this place home. My mind filled with images of little kids, knees bare, running through the streets below chasing after their dogs. I could hear mothers calling kids home to dinner. In that moment, I realized that Fort Monroe is just a regular little town tucked behind a wide wall where people loved. Played. Mourned.

Fort Monroe Pet Cemetery #ftoab

I sat among the graves and soaked it in as the sun set behind me. This — this is American history. It’s our story, and I just can’t let it go.

Dear reader, can you see the Fort Monroe that captivates me?

Useful sites to plan your visit to Fort Monroe

Fort Monroe is part of the US National Park Service. Admission is free. To learn more, click here. 

For a simple walking tour, click here. 

Plan your visit to Fort Monroe visit the Hampton CVB website. Great staff, I might add!

The Hampton CVB hosted my visit to Hampton, VA. Admission to Fort Monroe and the Casemate Museum is free to all.

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Comments

  1. Francis B. Kane, Jr. says

    October 23, 2018 at 9:58 am

    I fell in love with Ft. Monroe when my father was stationed there in 1934. My friends of those years were friends for life for many followed me into the Army. This beautiful old fort was the home of my youth

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      December 23, 2018 at 11:38 pm

      Oh my goodness. What an incredible place to know as a child. I’m glad you made friends for life. Have you been back?

      Reply
  2. heather says

    October 29, 2016 at 4:12 pm

    I have been here and it was amazing thanks for posting this one it made me smile to read the article and see the pics.

    Reply
  3. Eliz Frank says

    February 9, 2015 at 10:07 am

    What a fascinating place and an equally fascinating history. I can imagine feeling the weight of events gone by at a place like Fort Monroe.

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:18 am

      Very true!

      Reply
  4. Holly @ Woman Tribune says

    February 8, 2015 at 11:47 pm

    What amazing sights to behold. It’s really no wonder you fell in love with Fort Monroe. I would love to see the Jefferson Davis cell. I have a thing for old jails and prisons, and even current ones. I have no idea what it is, but I find them fascinating.

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:17 am

      His cell was surprisingly large, but really chilly! They eventually moved him because they feared he’d get sick and die in custody. You can sense that when visiting.

      Reply
  5. Sharon says

    February 7, 2015 at 9:29 pm

    Karen baby…I did as you asked and tried to soak it all in as I read it. You freaking moved me. I rarely travel and when I do it’s in the same five states, but I’m so motivated to visit Fort Monroe now

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:16 am

      I hope you make it east one day. I’d love to see you —- and the east coast is so different. History here, everywhere! (Next month, we celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Battle of Bentonville)…. like 20 minutes from my house! History comes alive. πŸ™‚

      Reply
  6. Daniele Holmberg says

    February 7, 2015 at 4:04 pm

    Those are some awesome historical places you got to visit! I am going to Paris in May. I will have to check out St. Chapelle

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:15 am

      I miss Paris! May is the perfect time to visit — everything will be in bloom! I hope you’ll make time to wander the streets of a residential arrondissement too…. great restaurants and parks tucked away all over the place.

      Reply
  7. Rosey says

    February 7, 2015 at 12:36 pm

    What a great post you’ve written here. I would love to visit, these kinds of places are right up our alley! I was thinking of doing a visit to Perry’s Monument this summer so the kids could learn the history of the Lake Erie battles. We’ll see. πŸ™‚

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:14 am

      Then next year, the Civil War, Virginia edition. And the year after, Revolutionary and Civil War, North Carolina edition! πŸ™‚

      Reply
  8. Esther says

    February 7, 2015 at 11:31 am

    I am only a few states away. You have me intrigued. I think this would be a great place to stop by for our summer vacation this year. πŸ™‚

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:13 am

      Esther, it’s near Williamsburg and VA Beach —- a great vacation destination with a heavy dose of interesting history and equal amounts play! Though running along the top of the casemate is fun too! πŸ™‚

      Reply
  9. Patricia Figurski says

    February 7, 2015 at 11:20 am

    What a great story! I never hear about that place ..and must admit- would never expect even to found one in USA. Thanks for sharing. It’s definitely go to my ‘vacation travels’ list πŸ™‚

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:12 am

      For you, it’s not too far away!!! Virginia Beach and Colonial Williamsburg are nearby (both within 30 minutes), so you could make a great vacation of it all. 2-3 days in Williamsburg, 2 days in Hampton and wrap it up on the beach!

      Reply
  10. Rebel Sweetheart says

    February 7, 2015 at 10:49 am

    I love historical sites such as these. Would love to visit these places someday. πŸ™‚

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:11 am

      It’s a bit far for you, though. Do you have plans to visit the US sometime?

      Reply
  11. Bismah says

    February 7, 2015 at 6:02 am

    This looks like an awesome place to visit! I love learning about history from all over the world.

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:11 am

      Me too. (Maybe that’s obvious from what I share on this site. πŸ™‚

      Reply
  12. Erinn S says

    February 7, 2015 at 1:57 am

    i love history and have it in my bucket list to visit the east coast and south to see these sights! So fascinating! Imagine owning that home!!

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:10 am

      When you head east, I sure hope you include a couple days with me! We can explore together. πŸ™‚

      Reply
  13. Uplifting Families says

    February 6, 2015 at 11:18 pm

    This looks like a great place to visit. There is so much history on the east coast. Thank you for sharing, I love visiting cool places.

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:10 am

      There’s a whole Civil War trail that includes Fort Monroe. I hope to explore more of it this year. LOTS of history here! πŸ™‚

      Reply
  14. Debbie Denny says

    February 6, 2015 at 9:40 pm

    This sounds fabulous. I love the stories behind the place.

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:09 am

      History is so much more interesting when you know the stories!

      Reply
  15. Danette Lykins says

    February 6, 2015 at 7:57 pm

    Very interesting- what a great place to see! Thanks for sharing..

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 9, 2015 at 10:09 am

      You’re welcome!

      Reply
  16. Jessica Beal Harlow says

    February 6, 2015 at 6:22 pm

    This is an absolute national treasure. What an amazing part of history. So many important historical figures have touched Fort Monroe. Thank you for sharing this…I have a true love-affair with history!

    Reply
    • Karen Dawkins says

      February 6, 2015 at 6:40 pm

      Oh Jessica, then you’ll LOVE this place! History overload in a good way, of course. πŸ™‚

      Reply

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Meet Karen Dawkins

An avid traveler, I enjoy discovering new places: history, culture, and adventure. I love it all! Well, not bugs. I don’t like bugs very much, so I probably won’t visit a bug museum.

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